At first glance, it might be hard to tell who designed this Pre-Fall 2016 Collection. And this is true on so many levels - Versace's signature elements of sexiness and extreme glam are missing and have instead been refined to a more modern-day aesthetic of femininity and practicality. Dontalla's continued exploration of an urban (yet still glamorous), almost underground world focuses on sportswear-inspired looks with streamlined, minimalist tailoring.
Notwithstanding the aesthetic differences, this collection continued to play the house's favorite card of contrasted feminine/masculine motifs. Belts with metallic 'V' details in baby blue, orange and pink pay homage to the familiar Versace DNA of color and edginess, while asymmetrical, body-hugging dresses are a small transformation of traditional evening wear to a more youthful cocktail dress. A great part of the collection also places emphasis on separates, especially coats, as is appropriate for Fall, made out of tweed in hues of pink, purple and blue. A pink embellished column dress stands out against the darker palette of the collection, reminding us of how versatile and confident the Versace woman is underneath all that layering.
Instead of flashing flesh and concentrating on curves, as per her previous seasons, Donatella is embracing a new, more subtle and understated refinement of femininity which is sure to appeal to a younger audience.
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All images courtesy of Versace.